Shoe Rant

Yesterday, while at Great Barrington, I broke out an old pair of V10s which still had a little rubber on them. Unfortunately my Jet7s had been mistakenly picked up by someone at the gym, and I needed a pair of sensitive shoes. Putting on the V10s really got me thinking about all of the pairs of shoes I've worn in my five or so years climbing - and I realized that 5.10 shoes are, in my opinion, the best on the market. My top 3 shoes, in order:

1) The OLD Five Ten V10s - These shoes were the best! They fit like a glove, had a super narrow heal, and sticky, sensitive rubber. The old V10s were downturned just enough to climb both vertical and overhung problems/routes in. I had two pairs of these, and really wish I could go out and pick up a new pair (or 3). The only downside that I can think of is that the heal occasionally popped off on a really tenuous heal hook - but that happens with all slippers.

2) Five Ten Jet 7s - I was really skeptical of these shoes when I first saw them. Fortunately, my skepticism was completely unwarranted. These shoes perform amazingly on the steeps, and equally well on vertical. The "green" toe rubber is definitely the best solution I've seen to rubber on the top of a shoe. Unlike most shoes with rubber on the top, the Jet7s maintain their sensitivity for toe hooking. My only complaint about these shoes is the strap on the closure system, which has worn quite a bit, and looks like it will break soon (granted I've been climbing in them four times a week for the past three months or so). 

3) Five Ten Dragon Lace-Ups  - I've had 3 pairs of these shoes now, and they are the workhorse of my climbing shoe arsenal. The Dragons have the same Stealth HF rubber as the Jet7s and the V10s. I especially like the way the Dragons climb when untied, which is great for warming up. 

Great Barrington

Wow - What a day. Jeremy, Rob, Todd, and I left Boston around 9 this morning to make the 2.5 hour drive out to Great Barrington. We warmed up at the warmup area this time instead of at the Speed Boulder. The warmup boulder has a bunch of V0-V4's, and is definitely worth checking out, even if it is at the end of the day. Anyway, we warmed up there and headed back to the Speed Boulder. I tried my best to do Big Big Love, but after five or six goes I gave up - that problem is my nemesis, and I'm quite sure I will never do it. During this time Rob did the stand start to Something From Nothing which I was told is V10. Definitely a strong send for him. Todd also made a lot of progress on the stand, but couldn't get his right hand over the lip for the topout. Todd has some really good beta on the move to the slot involving a finger lock with his left hand - I wish it worked for me. I tried the move a few times, and felt a little closer today than I had on previous trips. 

After we gave up on the Speed Boulder, we headed to The Filter (V9) and The Echo (V9). Both are thin face climbs, and pretty technical. Jeremy, Rob, and I worked on The Echo and figured out the beta, while Todd got on The Filter. Rob and Jeremy both got to the last move of The Echo, but couldn't stick the jug.  Todd made an impressive send of The Filter, killing every move with the smoothness.

I was pretty done for the day at that point, but we headed down to JLo (v8/9), which is probably the most aesthetic line at GB other than those on the Speed Boulder. This climb seemed impossible, but I would like to work it in the future. 

Here are some photos, courtesy of Rob Southern:

Todd on The Filter
Me on The Echo
Rob on The Echo
Jeremy on The Echo
Tod on Something from Nothing
Me on Something From Nothing (broke out the old V10s!)
Me on Crystal Problem (V4) (not sure on the exact name of this problem)

Forerunning

Last night Jeremy and I made our way up to Newburyport MA to forerun some problems for the comp they are having on saturday. I had trained hard the previous two nights, and was completely surprised when they handed me the open category score sheet to run. There were about twenty problems on the list, going from V7 to V10; I knew I was in for  a long night. We tried to run all of the problems, but by the end I couldn't do more than 3 moves at a time on the 7s. Forerunning that many problems is HARD - props to the guys who do this for the big comps. I woke up this morning and couldn't clench my fists, and my back is sorer than ever. What a good day of training that was. 

I'm excited to be heading back to Great Barrington on Sunday. Hopefully I will send my nemesis, Big Big Love, within the first few tries. If not, I think I'm giving up on that circus trick of a problem. 

Core

I talked to my brother last night about the core exercises he was doing for climbing. Apparently I'm not doing anywhere near enough for my core. To right this, I'm going to get a medicine ball and start doing 4 exercises, 3 sets each, 4 times a week. Hopefully this puts me on track to crush in Hueco this winter. 

Oh and does anyone know about a potential 5.10 slipper coming out? Thought I'd heard something about this a while back but nothing has been revealed.

The Gunks

Things didn't go quite as planned at the Gunks on Saturday. Mike, my brother Greg, Karsyn, and I left for the gunks early, and were climbing by 11 am. We walked down the carriage road to the Buddha, where Greg and Karsyn tried Andrews Problem. While they warmed up and whatnot, Mike and I went up to Crouching Dragon (V11). I had previously been on the stand start (Dragon Turns, V9/10), but had always thought the lower moves looked impossible for me. Much to my delight, I was quickly able to do the first two moves, but couldn't make the bump into the start hold of Dragon Turns. Mike had better luck, and within 5 goes had linked into the last move of the problem. Numerous burns later, he missed the jug at the lip, and never sent. 

Disappointed, we walked down to the Boxcar boulder so that Greg and Karsyn could try a dyno problem there. Mike and I rested, and then walked up to Venus In Scorpio, one of the best lines at the Gunks. I didn't have any luck on it - and Mike felt worse on it than he had this past winter. After that, we went back to Crouching Dragon for a few more tries before heading back to the car.

On our way to the car we stopped at Dislocator Roof (v2) and Black Boulder Problem (V4), where a crowed had gathered. There must have been ten people gathered around, with pads and gear strewn across the carriage road. 

The worst part, though, was that they had an Ipod blasting Rage Against the Machine. Seeing this really made me realize how much like an outdoor gym the Gunks is. I think that areas with such easy access and good landings promote the worst in bouldering etiquette. I decided that I'm over the Gunks or at least the Carriage Road scene. I think from now on I will be at Lost City or Peterskill. Or maybe I will just wait till it is too cold for all of the gym climbers to be out and about. 

Plans for the week

I hit up the gym last night with Jeremy for a training session, I think we climbed for 2 hours and campused/did core for 1. While we were working one of the many sandbagged problems in the gym, I remembered how much it helps to scream on hard moves, now I just need to keep that in my mind while climbing. I think I scared a few of the noobs who were top-roping, that or  I sounded like a little girl. Not sure which. Either way, screaming helps. 

Our campus sessions have gotten a lot more intense as of late. We have been working in a weight vest on some exercises. Right now we have about 9 lbs on it, which is surprisingly a lot of weight. Thats really it for the wood/plastic pulling side of things - more importantly on the rock climbing side of things I am going home this weekend, which means I get to head up to the Gunks for at least 1 day of climbing. 

Right now the plan is for Mike Arthur, Mike Rohsler, my brother, and I to head up early saturday morning and put in some work on Venus In Scorpio. Here is a video of Pete climbing Venus in Scorpio (v11):

Mike put a lot of work in on this climb last year, and was pretty close to doing it on his 3rd or so day - Hopefully he can send on Saturday, and maybe I'll have a good day and make some progress on it. On the slightly easier side of things, I think we will work Jahboo (v9), Even Lovely (V8), Jackson Pollock (V8), and maybe  The Art of Nothing (v8). I'd love to get over to Peterskill too, but I don't think it is going to happen this weekend. 

Great Barrington

Today was, overall, a success. Rob, Jeremy, Todd, and I left Boston around 8:30 and were climbing in Great Barrington by 11:30. I hadn't been to GB since last spring, and I wasn't really sure where the boulders were - fortunately I remembered, and we made our way up to the Speed Boulder, which contains Something From Nothing (V12), Roses And Blue Jays (V13) and Big Big Love (V8). We warmed up on a nice V2 around the side of the Speed Boulder, and then proceeded to work on Big Big Love. Unfortunately, I wasn't having much success with the gymnastic movement, but Rob, Jeremy, and Todd all did it within 3 or so tries. Next, Rob started working on Something from Nothing, which is an awesome line. He quickly sussed out the lower moves, and started working on the crux throw to a slot. After hitting above the slot maybe five times, Rob started sinking his right hand every time. With a little more work he did the top moves, and the top out. All this time I was working on Big Big Love by my lonesome self - still trying to get my right foot to heal toe cam properly. I put in around 30 attempts on Big Big Love, with zero success. In the meantime, Rob managed to get Something to Nothing into 2 sections. 

 After giving up hope, we all headed down to the Green Goddess boulder, which has a three or four lines on it, between V4 and V8. I was pretty burnt out by this point, so I watched the other guys crush problems. After a good session on that boulder, we headed up to Filter (V9). Filter is a sustained crimpy face, probably ten moves in all. I tried my best to bear down on the crimps, but my tips were dead from 30+ tries on Big Big Love. Rob did all of the moves, but had no luck on the link. 

After we gave up on Filter, Jeremy headed to check out another area, while Todd slept on his pad, and Rob and I went back to the Speed Boulder to try our "projects". I felt the best I had all day on Big Big Love, and finally sussed out the beta to get the heal toe cam to work, but I was too tired to finish the top section of the problem. Rob had a few more good burns on Something From Nothing, but didn't send. We walked out of the woods by headlamp, content with the long day of bouldering we'd had. I think we will both send on our next outing to the Speed Boulder. 

On the way home we stopped at some micro-brewery in GB, and I had an awesome burger. I felt like I had earned my meal, with forty or so tries on Big Big Love. Anyway, it was an awesome day. 

Great Barrington Saturday - looking to get on Big Big Love, Filter, Fotowa

Lincoln Woods Sunday - Barbwire? Not too psyched on LW but its rock not plastic.