Looks like Gary Goldfinger will be joining us tomorrow, possibly with someone who knows the area a little better. I'm headed out to REI right now to pick up a propane heater, or at least some hand warmers to deal w/ the 20* temps. 

Wow, just saw that Carlo Traversi topped Evilution out - ballsy. Props to him on the send. 

Back to Great Barrington on Saturday - Stoked! Looks like it is going to be 20 degrees or so, brrr.

Lincoln Woods

Jeremy, Chelsea, Sam, Brandon, P. Fitz, and I made it out to Lincoln Woods today to do a little afternoon bouldering. People talk a lot of smack about Lincoln Woods, mostly because of the graffiti on the rock, the grilling, and the loud music . I think most of that is to be expected 10 minutes outside of Providence, though. We got on a lot of problems today, and my tips held up well - I think Ander's A-Balm (www.a-balm.com) is really making a big difference on that front. Anyway I sent 3 climbs today - Neil's Lunge (v4), Clutch (v9), and Who Needs Hueco? (v8). Who Needs Hueco was my favorite climb - sidepulls and pinches out a roof to a big move to a hueco. Jeremy, Brandon and I sent this line just as the sun was fading. Next time I go back there are 4 7s that I need to finish up. Anyway, here are some photos. All photos by Adrian Cighi

Jeremy on Who Needs Hueco (v8)      Photo by Adrian Cighi
Me on Who Needs Hueco          Photo by Adrian Cighi
Jeremy on Clutch (v9)   Photo by Adrian Cighi

Me on Clutch (v9)    Photo by Adrian Cighi

P-Way

I made it out to Pawtuckaway yesterday with Jeremy and Sam. It was my first chance to see the area during the day, as we had previously only been there at night. During the day, Pawtuckaway is beautiful. I had an alright day, climbing Mortha Stweart, Atlas, and Up in Smoke (all v7).  My tips were dead by the end of the day, with the middle left bleeding. Can't wait to get back to Pway!

Shoe Rant

Yesterday, while at Great Barrington, I broke out an old pair of V10s which still had a little rubber on them. Unfortunately my Jet7s had been mistakenly picked up by someone at the gym, and I needed a pair of sensitive shoes. Putting on the V10s really got me thinking about all of the pairs of shoes I've worn in my five or so years climbing - and I realized that 5.10 shoes are, in my opinion, the best on the market. My top 3 shoes, in order:

1) The OLD Five Ten V10s - These shoes were the best! They fit like a glove, had a super narrow heal, and sticky, sensitive rubber. The old V10s were downturned just enough to climb both vertical and overhung problems/routes in. I had two pairs of these, and really wish I could go out and pick up a new pair (or 3). The only downside that I can think of is that the heal occasionally popped off on a really tenuous heal hook - but that happens with all slippers.

2) Five Ten Jet 7s - I was really skeptical of these shoes when I first saw them. Fortunately, my skepticism was completely unwarranted. These shoes perform amazingly on the steeps, and equally well on vertical. The "green" toe rubber is definitely the best solution I've seen to rubber on the top of a shoe. Unlike most shoes with rubber on the top, the Jet7s maintain their sensitivity for toe hooking. My only complaint about these shoes is the strap on the closure system, which has worn quite a bit, and looks like it will break soon (granted I've been climbing in them four times a week for the past three months or so). 

3) Five Ten Dragon Lace-Ups  - I've had 3 pairs of these shoes now, and they are the workhorse of my climbing shoe arsenal. The Dragons have the same Stealth HF rubber as the Jet7s and the V10s. I especially like the way the Dragons climb when untied, which is great for warming up. 

Great Barrington

Wow - What a day. Jeremy, Rob, Todd, and I left Boston around 9 this morning to make the 2.5 hour drive out to Great Barrington. We warmed up at the warmup area this time instead of at the Speed Boulder. The warmup boulder has a bunch of V0-V4's, and is definitely worth checking out, even if it is at the end of the day. Anyway, we warmed up there and headed back to the Speed Boulder. I tried my best to do Big Big Love, but after five or six goes I gave up - that problem is my nemesis, and I'm quite sure I will never do it. During this time Rob did the stand start to Something From Nothing which I was told is V10. Definitely a strong send for him. Todd also made a lot of progress on the stand, but couldn't get his right hand over the lip for the topout. Todd has some really good beta on the move to the slot involving a finger lock with his left hand - I wish it worked for me. I tried the move a few times, and felt a little closer today than I had on previous trips. 

After we gave up on the Speed Boulder, we headed to The Filter (V9) and The Echo (V9). Both are thin face climbs, and pretty technical. Jeremy, Rob, and I worked on The Echo and figured out the beta, while Todd got on The Filter. Rob and Jeremy both got to the last move of The Echo, but couldn't stick the jug.  Todd made an impressive send of The Filter, killing every move with the smoothness.

I was pretty done for the day at that point, but we headed down to JLo (v8/9), which is probably the most aesthetic line at GB other than those on the Speed Boulder. This climb seemed impossible, but I would like to work it in the future. 

Here are some photos, courtesy of Rob Southern:

Todd on The Filter
Me on The Echo
Rob on The Echo
Jeremy on The Echo
Tod on Something from Nothing
Me on Something From Nothing (broke out the old V10s!)
Me on Crystal Problem (V4) (not sure on the exact name of this problem)

Forerunning

Last night Jeremy and I made our way up to Newburyport MA to forerun some problems for the comp they are having on saturday. I had trained hard the previous two nights, and was completely surprised when they handed me the open category score sheet to run. There were about twenty problems on the list, going from V7 to V10; I knew I was in for  a long night. We tried to run all of the problems, but by the end I couldn't do more than 3 moves at a time on the 7s. Forerunning that many problems is HARD - props to the guys who do this for the big comps. I woke up this morning and couldn't clench my fists, and my back is sorer than ever. What a good day of training that was. 

I'm excited to be heading back to Great Barrington on Sunday. Hopefully I will send my nemesis, Big Big Love, within the first few tries. If not, I think I'm giving up on that circus trick of a problem.