Shoe Rant

Yesterday, while at Great Barrington, I broke out an old pair of V10s which still had a little rubber on them. Unfortunately my Jet7s had been mistakenly picked up by someone at the gym, and I needed a pair of sensitive shoes. Putting on the V10s really got me thinking about all of the pairs of shoes I've worn in my five or so years climbing - and I realized that 5.10 shoes are, in my opinion, the best on the market. My top 3 shoes, in order:

1) The OLD Five Ten V10s - These shoes were the best! They fit like a glove, had a super narrow heal, and sticky, sensitive rubber. The old V10s were downturned just enough to climb both vertical and overhung problems/routes in. I had two pairs of these, and really wish I could go out and pick up a new pair (or 3). The only downside that I can think of is that the heal occasionally popped off on a really tenuous heal hook - but that happens with all slippers.

2) Five Ten Jet 7s - I was really skeptical of these shoes when I first saw them. Fortunately, my skepticism was completely unwarranted. These shoes perform amazingly on the steeps, and equally well on vertical. The "green" toe rubber is definitely the best solution I've seen to rubber on the top of a shoe. Unlike most shoes with rubber on the top, the Jet7s maintain their sensitivity for toe hooking. My only complaint about these shoes is the strap on the closure system, which has worn quite a bit, and looks like it will break soon (granted I've been climbing in them four times a week for the past three months or so). 

3) Five Ten Dragon Lace-Ups  - I've had 3 pairs of these shoes now, and they are the workhorse of my climbing shoe arsenal. The Dragons have the same Stealth HF rubber as the Jet7s and the V10s. I especially like the way the Dragons climb when untied, which is great for warming up.