The Gunks

Things didn't go quite as planned at the Gunks on Saturday. Mike, my brother Greg, Karsyn, and I left for the gunks early, and were climbing by 11 am. We walked down the carriage road to the Buddha, where Greg and Karsyn tried Andrews Problem. While they warmed up and whatnot, Mike and I went up to Crouching Dragon (V11). I had previously been on the stand start (Dragon Turns, V9/10), but had always thought the lower moves looked impossible for me. Much to my delight, I was quickly able to do the first two moves, but couldn't make the bump into the start hold of Dragon Turns. Mike had better luck, and within 5 goes had linked into the last move of the problem. Numerous burns later, he missed the jug at the lip, and never sent. 

Disappointed, we walked down to the Boxcar boulder so that Greg and Karsyn could try a dyno problem there. Mike and I rested, and then walked up to Venus In Scorpio, one of the best lines at the Gunks. I didn't have any luck on it - and Mike felt worse on it than he had this past winter. After that, we went back to Crouching Dragon for a few more tries before heading back to the car.

On our way to the car we stopped at Dislocator Roof (v2) and Black Boulder Problem (V4), where a crowed had gathered. There must have been ten people gathered around, with pads and gear strewn across the carriage road. 

The worst part, though, was that they had an Ipod blasting Rage Against the Machine. Seeing this really made me realize how much like an outdoor gym the Gunks is. I think that areas with such easy access and good landings promote the worst in bouldering etiquette. I decided that I'm over the Gunks or at least the Carriage Road scene. I think from now on I will be at Lost City or Peterskill. Or maybe I will just wait till it is too cold for all of the gym climbers to be out and about.