Woah - My trip to Hueco is coming quick! With the recent snowstorm in the northeast it is looking like I won't be getting outside much. So far this has meant long sessions in the gym, core workouts, and weighted campusing. Maybe I will get out to Great Barrington after Christmas - I hope at least. 

Olivia's parents recently offered to let me stay with them in Falset, Spain this summer, which I'm hoping to do (hopefully for at least 2 weeks). Falset is about 40 minutes from Siurana and Montsant, where there are world-class crags! Unfortunately it will be super hot in July, but at least I'll be climbing! Anyone ever been to Siurana/Montsant/Falset? Any tips? I'd love to check out Albaraccin if I can somehow get my hands on a car, too (or if there is a way to get there by train?)

Da Gunks

Wow - Thanksgiving went by WAY to fast. I had a good time while I was home, though. Hit the gym on tuesday and worked a sport route for a little, nearly decked a couple times, but had a fun time overall. I haven't trained endurance in months, but surprisingly I felt good on routes. Anyway, Saturday Greg and I headed up the new paltz to meet Mike Arthur and Mikey Rhosler. Well they were their usual selves and didn't wake up till 11am, then missed the exit to new Paltz - we didn't see them till 2pm. 

Anyway, we were climbing by 1030am, and Greg got on a bunch of the moderates and had a good time. While we were warming up by the Gill egg with Jeff and Andrew, I met Chris Sierzant - you might've seen him on the cover of urban climber? Hes a cool guy in person, and definitely strong. I guess he was in the area for thanksgiving and wanted to see what the northeast was all about. I told him he had to see some real new england bouldering, and to check out GB - that pebbly conglomerate at the gunks doesn't compare. Anyway, we worked our way down the carriage road and I finally ended up at The Art of Nothing (8pts) with Jeff. We worked this a little, and I missed the good part of the lip a few times before giving up. This was the only problem I realllly worked all day. Even Lovely was a sheet of ice - bummer. I might work that in the future, though. Oh, and Bismark is a pile - i'm never getting on that.

Every time I go to the gunks (read: carriage road) I'm reminded that the only line I really love there is Crouching Dragon (11pts).  Mike showed up and almost sent first burn, falling off the last move. Second burn he matched the lip and fell. a few more tries falling off the last move and he gave up. I wish I could not warm up and nearly send an 11.

Great Barrington, frozen

Jeremy, Sam, Chelsea, and I headed out to GB this morning to meet Adrian, Gary and Murph. I've lately decided that GB is without a doubt the best bouldering area I've been to in the northeast. Anyway, it was forecast to be a chilly 27 degrees today, and it was definitely colder with the 15mph winds. After warming up we headed right up to the Phen Phen wall to work The Echo (v9) and Filter (v9). I gave Filter three or so burns, and came up with some good beta to avoid the penultimate hard move. The lockoff feels easier to me, but setting up the foot is definitely difficult. Gary was able to send on his second go using my beta. Anyway, I gave up on Filter for the day to work on my real goal, The Echo. Jeremy and I epiced on The Echo for a long time, and I must have fell off the jug in the seam 5 or 6 times before finally sticking it. Jeremy also sent, matching the left hand and going up to the seam. Next we headed to Fotowa (v9) to burn our tips a little more. I got about five burns in before my left index finger started gushing blood. This line should go in a couple tries when I'm fresh. Anyway, super stoked on GB, can't wait to return. Photos by Adrian Cighi.

Me on Fotowa, photo by Adrian Cighi
Me on Fotowa, photo by Adrian Cighi

Looks like Gary Goldfinger will be joining us tomorrow, possibly with someone who knows the area a little better. I'm headed out to REI right now to pick up a propane heater, or at least some hand warmers to deal w/ the 20* temps. 

Wow, just saw that Carlo Traversi topped Evilution out - ballsy. Props to him on the send. 

Back to Great Barrington on Saturday - Stoked! Looks like it is going to be 20 degrees or so, brrr.

Lincoln Woods

Jeremy, Chelsea, Sam, Brandon, P. Fitz, and I made it out to Lincoln Woods today to do a little afternoon bouldering. People talk a lot of smack about Lincoln Woods, mostly because of the graffiti on the rock, the grilling, and the loud music . I think most of that is to be expected 10 minutes outside of Providence, though. We got on a lot of problems today, and my tips held up well - I think Ander's A-Balm (www.a-balm.com) is really making a big difference on that front. Anyway I sent 3 climbs today - Neil's Lunge (v4), Clutch (v9), and Who Needs Hueco? (v8). Who Needs Hueco was my favorite climb - sidepulls and pinches out a roof to a big move to a hueco. Jeremy, Brandon and I sent this line just as the sun was fading. Next time I go back there are 4 7s that I need to finish up. Anyway, here are some photos. All photos by Adrian Cighi

Jeremy on Who Needs Hueco (v8)      Photo by Adrian Cighi
Me on Who Needs Hueco          Photo by Adrian Cighi
Jeremy on Clutch (v9)   Photo by Adrian Cighi

Me on Clutch (v9)    Photo by Adrian Cighi

P-Way

I made it out to Pawtuckaway yesterday with Jeremy and Sam. It was my first chance to see the area during the day, as we had previously only been there at night. During the day, Pawtuckaway is beautiful. I had an alright day, climbing Mortha Stweart, Atlas, and Up in Smoke (all v7).  My tips were dead by the end of the day, with the middle left bleeding. Can't wait to get back to Pway!