Saturday, November 22, 2008

Great Barrington, frozen

Jeremy, Sam, Chelsea, and I headed out to GB this morning to meet Adrian, Gary and Murph. I've lately decided that GB is without a doubt the best bouldering area I've been to in the northeast. Anyway, it was forecast to be a chilly 27 degrees today, and it was definitely colder with the 15mph winds. After warming up we headed right up to the Phen Phen wall to work The Echo (v9) and Filter (v9). I gave Filter three or so burns, and came up with some good beta to avoid the penultimate hard move. The lockoff feels easier to me, but setting up the foot is definitely difficult. Gary was able to send on his second go using my beta. Anyway, I gave up on Filter for the day to work on my real goal, The Echo. Jeremy and I epiced on The Echo for a long time, and I must have fell off the jug in the seam 5 or 6 times before finally sticking it. Jeremy also sent, matching the left hand and going up to the seam. Next we headed to Fotowa (v9) to burn our tips a little more. I got about five burns in before my left index finger started gushing blood. This line should go in a couple tries when I'm fresh. Anyway, super stoked on GB, can't wait to return. Photos by Adrian Cighi.


Me on Fotowa, photo by Adrian Cighi
Me on Fotowa, photo by Adrian Cighi



Friday, November 21, 2008

Looks like Gary Goldfinger will be joining us tomorrow, possibly with someone who knows the area a little better. I'm headed out to REI right now to pick up a propane heater, or at least some hand warmers to deal w/ the 20* temps. 

Wow, just saw that Carlo Traversi topped Evilution out - ballsy. Props to him on the send. 

Tuesday, November 18, 2008

Back to Great Barrington on Saturday - Stoked! Looks like it is going to be 20 degrees or so, brrr.

Sunday, November 9, 2008

Lincoln Woods

Jeremy, Chelsea, Sam, Brandon, P. Fitz, and I made it out to Lincoln Woods today to do a little afternoon bouldering. People talk a lot of smack about Lincoln Woods, mostly because of the graffiti on the rock, the grilling, and the loud music . I think most of that is to be expected 10 minutes outside of Providence, though. We got on a lot of problems today, and my tips held up well - I think Ander's A-Balm (www.a-balm.com) is really making a big difference on that front. Anyway I sent 3 climbs today - Neil's Lunge (v4), Clutch (v9), and Who Needs Hueco? (v8). Who Needs Hueco was my favorite climb - sidepulls and pinches out a roof to a big move to a hueco. Jeremy, Brandon and I sent this line just as the sun was fading. Next time I go back there are 4 7s that I need to finish up. Anyway, here are some photos. All photos by Adrian Cighi

Jeremy on Who Needs Hueco (v8)      Photo by Adrian Cighi
Me on Who Needs Hueco          Photo by Adrian Cighi
Jeremy on Clutch (v9)   Photo by Adrian Cighi
Me on Clutch (v9)    Photo by Adrian Cighi

Sunday, November 2, 2008

P-Way

I made it out to Pawtuckaway yesterday with Jeremy and Sam. It was my first chance to see the area during the day, as we had previously only been there at night. During the day, Pawtuckaway is beautiful. I had an alright day, climbing Mortha Stweart, Atlas, and Up in Smoke (all v7).  My tips were dead by the end of the day, with the middle left bleeding. Can't wait to get back to Pway!