rain rain rain

seems like it will never end. Sucks that Nor'easter was supposed to have been this weekend, kinda wanted to go and see friends - I guess secretly I also wanted to watch someone climb Jaws II. Anyway, I had 2 days on at the gym, taking today off, then 2 more days on. Hopefully the weather next weekend is a little better looking.

Sent Stegosaurus last Thursday night, happy about that. Also picked up a weight vest last week - campus training w/ weight seems to be a pretty good workout. 3.5 months till Hueco, need to train hard!

P-Way

Well we got home from Pawtuckaway about an hour and a half ago, at 1 a.m. It was a great session, possibly the best I have had all year. We warmed up at the Zoo, repeating a few moderates before moving to the Split boulder. The first hard problem we got on was Steg-A-saurus (v9), which traverses across an overhanging face. I did all the moves in six or so tries, though I couldn't link the 2 pieces together. Jeremy and Rob also did all the moves on this problem, but they weren't able to link it either. Steg-A-Saurus should go first or second try next time we are at Pway.
After that, we walked over to Halcyon (V11) and My Little Pony (V9/10). Rob and Jeremy put a little work into Halcyon, while I watched and spotted. Both Jeremy and Rob were able to hit the gaston way left, but neither was able to move off it. Next up was My Little Pony, which starts on the same undercling as Halcyon, but breaks right with a long move to a bad crimp. Rob and I worked the move for a while, and Rob was able to stick it twice. I think that with some work, all three of us can send that line this fall.
Our lantern setup worked really well! The propane lantern is a lot brighter than the white gas one for some reason - so if anyone is purchasing a lantern any time soon, pick up a propane lantern and not a white gas lantern.

Rob on Halcyon
Jeremy on Steg-A-Saurus
Rob on Steg-A-Saurus
Me on Steg-A-Saurus
Me on Steg-A-Saurus, again.

Well I decided I'm going to the Noreaster up at Rumney at the end of the month. The Band lineup and the Reel Rock Tour are pretty sick, and I think I might actually spend the $50 to do both days - then again, I might just go to Rumney on Saturday to see the climbing.

And I'll be in Hueco Jan 7-11, anyone going to be down there?

Pway thursday night for a little night session - excited! I might even take wednesday night off so I can try to send something because temps are looking good (low of 45, high of 67). 10-15 mph Winds tomorrow should dry out the rain from today. I'll try to get some photos of whatever we get on. Maybe Blaow?

my left ring finger is pretty messed up. I've been putting the glucosamine gell on it, hope that helps. I'm also climbing really weak right now, hopefully that changes too.

Trained tonight

Well my session at the gym went well. My skin is still not what it was, but I was able to do a few 6 and 7s. I ended up putting a few tries into a problem that is probably v9 or so based on consensus. I made some progress and that and unlocked some beta for a few other guys. After that I headed over to the campus board to put some work in on the big rungs. I did three sets of 1-3-5-7-9s, 3 sets of 3-6-9s, three sets of bumps right and left 3-4-5-6-7, and then deadhung for a while. Typewriters were next on my list and I did 3 sets of 3 good typewriters. I still feel week locking off, but I think that will come back quick. After that I worked on assisted one arms, doing 3 sets of 4 on each arm, staggered about a foot and a half on the rings. At that point I'd had enough of the rings and went upstairs to work on core - did 3 sets of decline bench w/ the 10 pound dumbell till I couldn't move anymore. in between sets I did some shoulder exercises - hopefully that helps me. Next I did 3 sets of 50 russian twists with the 15 lb dumbell. To finish it all up I did 15 minutes on the bike, and drank some endurox to recover.
I've finally gotten myself psyched on training - hopefully it all pays off in January.

Beginning, part deux

Well its been well over a year since I started this "blag" and I've only posted on it twice. For some reason I have the urge to start documenting my climbing again, and this will likely be the medium used. Anyway, classes started again today here in Boston. Its always a bit scary the first few days of the semester trying to figure out what classes are going to be difficult, what profs are good, bad, and how to approach each class. Fortunately, my schedule looks like it will provide me with a lot of time to climb and train, which is amazing because the fall is the best time for rock scramblin' in New England. I have fridays off, which means many trips up to Rumney with Brian or Keller, and weekends at Pawtuckaway with Jeremy.
I just ended a two week break from rock climbing. I think my short hiatus served me well, because most of my fingers feel fine when I clench my fists now, with the exception of my ring finger on my left hand, which still hurts a little. Before I took my break I was climbing the strongest I ever had, and I'm excited to try to get back to that level and surpass it. I've only got 5 months until Hueco, so I need to start training right away - tonight actually. My plan is basically to do as many moves as possible a night, and to not really project too much. I also plan on doing lots of core work - leg lifts, decline bench weighted crunches, russian twists, and maybe planks. For some reason training core has always seemed to provide me with the biggest leaps in my climbing ability, so I hope it can help again this time. I'm also going to try doing campus workouts, including deadhangs, 1-3-5's, 1-4-7's, double dyno 1-3-2's and 1-4-2's, left and right bumps from 1-2-3-4-5-6. I want to start off on the big rungs with 5 fingers, and work down on rung size, then start working big rungs again, dropping a finger. I think I'll start doing typewriters on the rings at the gym and one arm pullups / assisted 1 arm pullups (not sure doing sets of 2 one arms will really help me).
I'll have to work out a schedule for all of this, and maybe try to get Jeremy on board to train with me.
I don't think anyone reads this, but if you are, let me know if you have any recommendations on exercises. I'm particularly weak on shouldery moves, but don't know any really good exercises.

Well, I'm off to the gym for a session. Peace.